The Four State Food Critic recently traveled over the
mountain to Frederick for new culinary adventures. Drifting away from Market Street (and its
wide assortment of great places to dine), the FSFC and family sampled Family Meal, one of several restaurants
owned by celebrity chef Bryan Voltaggio (of “Top Chef” and “Top Chef Masters”
fame). Unlike his flagship (and
excellent) fine dining restaurant, ‘Volt’, Family Meal is an updated and family
friendly take on the local diner. Think
pot roast, macaroni and cheese, and omelets – all served with a modern
interpretation in a more relaxed atmosphere.
The restaurant occupies a building once owned by a
1960’s-era car dealership, but the space inside has been transformed into an
open and airy dining room anchored by counter seating along one wall. Outdoor seating is also available. The tableware and glassware are a bit more
retro (think thick white coffee mugs and generic flatware), creating a nice mix
of modern vs. nostalgic.
Our party started off with drinks and craft beers from the cocktail
menu, while our kids had bottles of hand-crafted sodas. We then dove into the appetizer menu. Our party sampled deviled eggs, crispy chicken
livers (excellent), and the kids tried out some chicken pot pie fritters (which
were so popular they were also ordered for dessert).
For main courses, the FSFC had the fried chicken, which was
served with buttermilk biscuits, pickles, and hot sauce for dipping. The chicken was crispy on the outside, moist
on the inside, and had an excellent flavor which was enhanced by the hot
sauce. Others at our table had the
shrimp and grits (served with andouille sausage, red peppers, and scallions)
and the crab cake sandwich. All were
well prepared and delicious. The Four
State Food Critic is a bit of a crab cake snob, but these did not
disappoint. Lots of crab meat and little
filler (the way they should be). There
is also a kids menu, but the staff was more than willing to accommodate my
youngest daughter’s request for “just plain pancakes”.
We also ordered onion rings (with sriracha ranch aoli) and
duck fat fried potatoes (with dipping sauces) for the entire table. Let me tell you something, if you’ve never
tasted potatoes fried in duck fat, get ready for a new craving. Everyone at the table devoured these, including
the young ones.
For dessert, our party shared the sour-cream
cheesecake. It was served more as a
custard or crème brulee (not the traditional slice), with strawberry-ginger
sorbet and blackberry preserves. The
review at the table was mixed. The kids
enjoyed hand-made milkshakes, which were
very tasty.
Service was provided by an enthusiastic and well-informed
wait staff. If there is one knock on
Family Meal, it is that the concrete floors, high ceilings, and massive windows
create a very loud dining space. Our
table had to almost shout to hear each other in ordinary dinner conversation.
If you’re looking for a family-friendly and fresh take on
the diner experience, then Family Meal
is a great choice.
The Four Star Food Critic Review
(Each category has a possible “best out of 5” rating)
Atmosphere: 3.5
Food: 4
Price: $$$-$$$$
Service: 4
Overall: 3.5
Family Meal is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Reservations for parties of 6 or more are
recommended. Menus can be viewed at
their website (listed below).
Location:
800 N East
Street
Frederick,
MD 21701
(301) 378-2895
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